11.5.2000 HOSTEL SKIPPY is like home. It’s a charming little house on the river. Take any bus to get there from the train station. They all head into town. If you tell the bus driver you’re going to Hostel Skippy, he’ll tell you where to get off. The locals that got off at the same stop pointed me in the right direction. Everyone seems to know Hostel Skippy.

CESKY KRUMLOV is built along the river Vlatava, which snakes its way through the town multiple times. Crossing bridges constantly, you get confused… which part of town am I in now?

My favorite area is across the river on a small strip of grass wedged between the church and the water. Locals go to sunbathe, read or practice violin.
Even here... Can you find the DSS dish?
This picture is taken from my favorite area.
The view from the deck of Hostel Skippy.

12.5.2000 The best food I had on the trip was at BABYLON, just up the street from Hostel Skippy. If you walk towards the town on Plesivecka, don’t cross the river, and instead head left along the water. This street is lined with restaurants. If you go to Babylon, order the house special, which is a Serbian pan-fried pork cutlet with potatoes. Order a pivo (beer) to go with it and you’re set. Sit at a table next to the river, so close you could dip your feet in. The entire meal is US$3. Enjoy it because you won’t get this in the big cities.

For some reason, the French developed an architectural style that utilizes what is called a fake front (faux façade). This style involves painting texture onto a flat blank wall to simulate stone. You get beveled brick edges painted as if the sun is always high in the sky and to the left. It doesn’t fool anyone. The castle in Cesky Krumlov is painted this way.

Tourist gets in the way of my shot. No... that's me.

Cesky Krumlov is home to the EGON SCHIELE MUSEUM. Schiele happens to be one of my favorite artists. He’s considered part of the turn of the century Viennese Secessionist movement that was started by Gustav Klimt (more on Klimt in Vienna). Schiele loved the bohemian countryside around Cesky Krumlov, which was Schiele’s mother’s birthplace. On May 12, 1910 (that's 90 years ago to this day!) he moved there with his artist friends Anton Peschka and Ervin Osen. His stay was short lived though, as the conservative citizens of the town took offense to his nudes of pubescent girls and kicked him out of town on August 6, 1911. The museum has sketches and paintings of the town and several works by Kokochka, another member of the Secessionist movement.

It doesn’t take long to explore the entire central part of town, cross every bridge, walk down every small path. So I spent most of the day lazing around by the river. Reading, sketching. This is my first vacation from my vacation.

The fountains in the Castle Gardens.