21.5.2000 FLORENCE before nine in the morning easily fools you into thinking that it’s a quiet little town. No rush hour traffic, just the sound of birds, lights from bakeries and crisp morning air. It is serene. Then there’s an explosion of sound as windows fly open, people step out on to the sidewalks and scooters shoot through the streets. A bus blasts by and you realize Florence is like any other city, only louder.

I arrived at CAMPO MESTO train station at 5:00 in the morning. The main train station is Santa Maria Novella, close to the heart of the city. In fact, my ticket said S. M. Novella, but the night train stops at Campo Mesto.

Where is Campo Mesto? I had no idea.

Since the map in Lonely Planet didn’t show it, I assumed it was pretty far from the Hostel Archi Rossi (conveniently located near the main train station) which is where I wanted to stay. Information was closed. It opens at 8:00. The buses weren’t running yet and I had no Italian change anyway. (I did have Italian bills though because an ATM in Munich dispensed different currencies).

What to do? I found a map. Next to the train schedules was an expanded map of Florence showing Campo Mesto way far east. Not too far past the edge of the map in my guidebook. So I copied down a route from the map and decided to walk.

Of course, I got lost. I missed a turn and ended up walking too far south. So I headed west and discovered the part of Florence I like best. It’s Florence in the early, early morning before anyone is awake. I love that feeling.

I had the city all to myself.

I wander down side streets and alleys and keep heading in the same general direction and end up at the PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA, which is where the Uffizi is and also Ammannati’s fountain of Neptune and a copy of Michelangelo’s David.

Walking out of the Piazza, I look east briefly and get a glimpse of the Duomo.

It’s huge. And striking, because of its color scheme. I had to get a closer look. It’s overwhelming. You must see it for real.

I finally make my way to the HOSTEL ARCHI ROSSI on Via Faenza which has just opened. I’m lucky because I’m able to reserve a bed for the night. It just won’t be ready till 14:30. There is a shut-out period from 11:00 to 14:30. This is the only hostel I stayed at that had one.

I drop off my bags and head back out into Florence which is still sleeping and beautiful.

Italy is the land of the American backpacker. Because while you’ll encounter Australians in overwhelming numbers most places, Florence was mostly American. Mostly.

I made this incorrect assumption while talking with a girl and wondered why she had such a hard time understanding me. Like a closed-minded fool, I assumed every traveler spoke English, but being from Quebec, her first language was French.

MICHELANGELO'S DAVID is at the GALLERIA DELL’ACCADEMIA which is next to the Piazza della SS Annunziata. The entrance though, is not facing the Piazza, but rather, on the street next to it.

Seeing David is a must.

I have to admit, before going on this trip, I figured, "David, what’s the big deal?”

To be honest, my perception of Michelangelo’s David was shaped in large part by the Simpsons.

Remember the episode where they bring the statue of David to Springfield? David just looks underwhelming rendered in the Groenig style. Plus, in the cartoon, he’s life-size. Sculpted in 1:1 scale.

The same height as Homer Simpson.

In reality, David is twenty-five feet tall, if he was an inch. At such scale, you’d think there’s going to be some problems in proportion. How can you get it right working so close (as you have to) to the statue? He looks almost real.

Ankles a little thick, one hand a little big (someone told me this was done on purpose) and gigantic eyes, but other than that, the proportions are ideal.

David looks like a giant living man made of marble. He’s just killed Goliath. Didn’t break a sweat. You expect him to step off the pedestal. He must be tired of holding that pose for so long…

Michelangelo is The Man.

There are other unfinished statues of Michelangelo’s in the Accademia. The one of Jesus? I don’t care what you say, the man who sculpted David DID NOT sculpt that one, which is all out of proportion, like some bad caricature.

You’ll bump into the same travelers in different cities many times on your trip. Everyone takes almost the same logical route from city to city so this is bound to happen with people going the same general direction as you. You’ll recognize them in your hostel or walking down the street or in the middle of a crowd. Maybe you only knew them in passing before or maybe you hung out and then parted ways. It gives you that “small world” feeling over and over.

Having dinner with Jeff, Jeff, Sasha and Brandy (I met them all at the hostel), I saw Miranda from Budapest at the same restaurant. I love bumping into people in other countries! Her whole group is staying across the river at another hostel. The world of backpackers is a small world.