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Little Mahjong, Big Mahjong
The university where I studied in Taiwan had a nickname among the locals, “Mahjong U.” because so many students played at all times of the day. However, my adopted home Chongqing would have good reason to earn the nickname “Mahjong City” because wherever you go and at all times of day and night, there is the constant clacking of the plastic tiles hitting each other when being “washed” (shuffled) after every hand. While playing for money is technically illegal, most locals will tell you that it is utterly boring with no incentive, and even retirees like my mother-in-law play on a regular basis, if only for a few cents a hand.
Chongqing majhong is one of the simplest forms going, and nearly anyone can pick it no time. Basically, it is a matter of lining up the tiles according to suit and number, and the one who does it the quickest wins the hand. Money is exchanged as the winner either takes from everyone if they go out on their own, or from an opponent who gives away the winning tile.
My wife Jennifer loves a good game now and again, and although I do not condone gambling in any form, trust that she won’t bet away all our savings or endanger her health by pulling all-nights with her “Mahjong Mates”. Her luck is usually uncanny, and when she does partake in “Building the Great Wall”, (another local term for the game), she often comes home with more coin than she left with. My poor mother-in-law however, always manages to part with a few RMB every time she plays. Does that perhaps reflect her skill level? She certainly would not agree, and might be offended if anyone even suggested it. (I am glad she cannot read English, otherwise I might get an earful!) Oh well, at least it is good for hand-eye coordination, and many say playing regularly wards off senility. In her case it must be working, because at 80 she is still very sharp mentally, and remembers exactly how much her friends have profited from her over the last calendar year!
On the other end of the scale there are the high-rollers who play “Big Mahjong” for major moolah, and who, on any given night, can pocket or squander thousands of RMB without batting an eye. Mahjong parlors are common in the city and sometimes come under the scrutiny of the local authorities who try to curb the proliferation of these “illegal gambing dens”. Still, many play for money right out in the open, in restaurants or even on the sidewalks, and do not worry too much about being discrete. I guess there are just so many tables seeing action all day, the police don’t overly concern themselves unless public disturbances occur, which does not happen often, fortunately.
last modified Jun 28, 2004 at 5:32
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