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An Introduction to Downtown Chongqing
Chongqing is a city entirely unique in China. Its hilly topography, ubiquitous stairways, enclosed harbor, and sprawling high-rises give it a very 3-D quality. While this, the newest of China’s Direct Municipalities, may boast an aggregate population of 30 million people, the downtown area is surprisingly small, and is not terribly difficult to navigate.
It is well deserving of its various nicknames such as “Mountain City”, “Foggy City” and “Hot Pot City”. Because of its uneven landscape and the curvature of the Yangtze （长江）and Jialing （嘉岭江）Rivers, getting your bearings takes some time. Locals never know what is north, south, east or west; Chongqing is decidedly not laid out on a north-south grid like many flat-lying cities. However, there are only a few major roads leading in and out of downtown, and you are bound to get to know the ropes well if you spend any time there. Finding your way to any of the well-known sites of the city is pretty easy, and almost everyone can tell you what number bus to take. If you are wandering around the downtown area and really can’t find your way, just hop in a taxi. The price for the first 5 km is a mere 5-Yuan, with small increments after that. The roads can be very steep and winding, and you may confuse the Jialing for the Yangtze when you are near a waterfront. While you may be surprised to see no bicycles on the streets you will know why. There are a few private and government sedans and jeeps on the roads, but the vast majority of the vehicles are the yellow cabs and buses of various styles. You may want to try avoiding the smaller “bread buses”; some drivers are more concerned about making up time than passenger safety. Sometimes they speed off while people are still trying to get on board, and they seem to enjoy playing chicken with their competitors, cutting them off whenever they can and trying to get to the next stop first to collect the waiting passengers. They don’t call them “say goodbye to the living” buses（送命车）for nothing!
Traffic conditions should improve drastically over the next few years as they complete the new roads (滨江路) on both banks of both rivers. Better yet even will be the new 3-phase light rail system that will really modernize transportation in Chonging. The first line linking downtown with the outskirts is expected to be ready by the end of 2005.
Except in summer when the sun blazes down and temperatures often exceed 40 C (hence it being called one of China’s furnaces), fog and haze are almost constantly permeating the air. Because of the protective hillsides, there is very little wind, and the evaporation of the river water adds to the humidity the city is so well known for.
While there may not be as much sunlight as you would like, the fog and damp air do have their upside. The women in Chongqing are famous for their wonderful complexions and sleek figures. Just wander around the huge pedestrian mall known as Jie Fang Bei (解放碑) downtown and you will see the truth to this. People watching is a favorite activity of locals and foreigners alike, and the stylish fashions (including some semi-transparent outfits that even in more progressive western countries would be considered rather risqué) make for an open-air fashion show atmosphere at all times of day. Unlike North America with its rather heavy-set populous, Chongqing people are especially slender. Low fat content in the local cuisine, and the constant necessity for climbing stairs here, there and everywhere keep most people fit and trim.
In the downtown area, there are several attractions worth a visit. Right at the tip of the Peninsula downtown is Chao Tian Men (朝天门) “Gates Facing Heaven”. This is the starting point or terminus for most Yangtze River Cruises. A few years ago they did up the whole area to look like the bow of a ship facing the confluence of these two mighty waterways. Before its completion in 1998, Chao Tian Men looked like an oversized anthill. It was a hazardous mess of stairs, potholes, clay (and mud galore when it rained), and was navigated at all hours by porters, vendors, and passengers trodding to and from the ships. Now the upper level is a large open air square, great for picture taking when it is clear, and there are inexpensive markets nearby selling a wide range of goods from the usual tourist paraphernalia of maps, binoculars, umbrellas, hats, etc., to clothing, art, stationary, and of course, Sichuanese snacks. There are a number of ticketing agencies in the area as well for all classes of ships plying the Yangtze.
The commercial center of Chongqing is Jiefang Bei, which means “Liberation Monument”. Built around a clock tower constructed to celebrate the victory of the Communist forces over the KMT Nationalists in 1949, the obelisk-like structure is now dwarfed by the office buildings, department stores, and upscale apartments rising around it. The whole area has been turned into a huge pedestrian mall over the past few years and the area off-limits to vehicles continues to expand.
Spend some time on Gourmet Street, where you can try practically all of what Sichuan and Chongqing cuisine have to offer in just a few blocks of restaurants, food courts, and outdoor stalls. This is the street leading away from the McDonald’s (Chongqing’s first). Look for the bronze statues of the family eating long noodles right in the middle of the road. If you go during lunch or dinner hours, be prepared for the hoards of people trying to bud in front of everyone else to get served. Weekends especially can be overwhelming for the number of people in this area, and for the unaccustomed foreigner, this can really be culture shock with a capital S. Once you get used to it, it can almost be fun, winding your way through the masses and craning your neck checking out the various characters you pass by. People-watching is a popular pastime here, and the locals have a funny name for it; “打望”, similar to “craning your neck” in English.
Of course, no visit to Chongqing would be complete without braving the spices of its trademark dish, hot pot. You will not need to look far to find a place to try it out; the aroma of the spices seems to permeate the whole city, and you just have to follow your nose. This boiling cauldron of chili peppers and Sichuanese peppercorns will certainly leave its impression on your taste buds, and some people like to attribute the fiery temperaments of the locals to this dish. Herbalists say the various ingredients help prevent arthritis, which have led to studies supporting this supposition. Few people here suffer from joint problems. Foreigners sweating over the fire pot often joke they can have dental work done at a cheap price afterwards, because no freezing would be required because of the numbing effect of the peppercorns. If you are squeamish at first, give yourself some time; it is an acquired taste and you may well grow to crave it like the locals after a while. You might want to save the duck’s intestines and tripe (cow stomach) for future visits, and there are plenty of yummy ingredients that will make for a positive first experience. Potatoes, tomatoes, tofu, mushrooms, alfalfa sprouts, and beef strips are my personal favorites. Certainly, one of the best aspects of life in Chongqing is the cuisine. There is a tremendous variety of fresh local produce, all reasonably priced and tastefully prepared. And no, it is not all burn-your-tongue-off hot. Traditional Sichuanese food has many different flavors, and nowadays so many new offerings on the menus that even the locals have trouble keeping track of them new all. Feel free to experiment!
In Jie Fang Bei, the Metropolitan Center (大都会) is a huge shopping and entertainment complex. You can’t miss the colorful sign and outdoor television suspended on the pedestrian mall side of the building. You may want to pick up some western toiletries at Watson’s (屈臣氏), or enjoy a coffee in one of the cafés on the first or second floor. Wai Po Qiao （外婆桥） is a good restaurant serving Sichuanese dishes at a decent price. Upstairs on the 6 floor there is an ice skating rink open all day, movie theatre complex (Hollywood features, mostly dubbed in Chinese unfortunately), and food court similar to what you would see in a North American shopping mall. The 5-star Harbor Plaza Hotel is part of the same complex, and boasts the highest building in Chongqing (for now). Other high-class hotels in the area include the Chongqing Hotel (重庆宾馆) with its traditional architecture, the posh Marriott Hotel (万豪), and the newly-opened Hilton (稀尔顿) in Liang Lu Kou (两路口).
The side streets offer some interesting exploring, from Chinese “Dollar Stores” to high-end boutiques, Taiwanese Bubble Tea shops, beauty salons, and massage parlors. The prices for these services are very reasonable, and there is nothing like a foot massage after a long day walking all those stairs. The skills of masseurs and masseuses vary greatly; so if it is your first visit, insist on someone experienced, you will be happy you did. Most such establishments are regulated by the local authorities and are usually on the up-and-up (but may provide “extra” service at a price for interested clientele).
You are likely to be solicited by black market money exchangers as you pass by the many banks in the area. All banks have signs saying, “Illegal money exchange strictly forbidden”, but the practice continues to flourish and everyone seems to turn a blind eye. There is a limit on how much foreign currency the Chinese can purchase before going abroad, so supply does not meet
last modified Sep 18, 2004 at 21:48
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